Rokon Scout


Here it is from the horses mouth. The following letter was posted to the Rokon World Message Board Forum by Orla Larsen, the founder of Rokon-.

Orla 5:35 PM Friday January 22, 1999 To my buddy SYCO: When starting the new company to build the TBs I wanted to get a catchy name like Radar or similar, spelled the same front or back. I had been a professional skier in Canada and had the opportunity to come to the US and start a new ski area in Vermont, We called it Mt.

Snow (actually it was named after the owner of the land-Reuben Snow) after getting the ski area going, (I was the general manager and also ski school director) and it became VERY successful, I built a lodge to cater to the winter and summer business. During the excavation for the main building, the gentleman that we bought the land from came by to have a look at what we were doing.

There were piles of rocks heaped all over the place from the excavation, and the original land owner said (man this place is really on the rocks) so that is what we named our lodge. When I was looking for a name for the new TB company I bastardized On The Rocks to ROCKON, but it did not look good in print, so I changed it to ROKON and that is how it all got started. Sorry about temporally impaired people that pronounce it ROWKON, but then the good lord told us to be tolerant.

For an excellent story on the history of the Rokon- click HERE



The subject of the proper oil/fuel ratio is probably the NUMBER ONE question that everyone asks and nobody can agree on. The latest owners manual recommends 40:1. However in the field Rokonites are running ratios from 16:1 all the way to 100:1 depending on the type of oil (regular or synthetic) and the time of month. Three things you never want to discuss in polite company are.

Religion, Politics and What mix do you recommend?

You would be safe to run a good grade of 2-stroke oil (chainsaw,outboard or motorcycle) at 20:1. A synthetic should be safe at around 50:1. Your milage may vary.


The stock plug for the 2-stroke motor is a Champion L90-C Copper Plus. Recently Champion changed the stock number of the L90-C to #896. You can use any brand you prefer that crosses to this number.

Gap is .030.


The Rokon- comes with a choice of 3 wheel types. The most common type is a 15 tube type aluminum drum wheel that can hold 4.5 gal of your choice of liquid (gas,water,scotch, etc.) or be left empty to provide flotation. The most common size tire is the 6.70×15 Goodyear Shur-Trac implement tire.

This is the familiar V lug tractor tire. Recently Goodyear has come out with another tread design in this tire that has a little better side traction, it is a 5.90X15 and has a cup tread design. Recently Rokon has introduced a 12 aluminum drum wheel as an option. The other type of wheel is the 12 spoke type.

It is a steel tubeless rim with 5 large diameter radial spokes. The wheels are the same front to back for both types with the exception of the front wheel on the rear wheel drive only RT-140. It has a large brake disc in place of a sprocket on the front wheel. On the steel wheels the sprocket is welded on, the aluminum wheels use either bolt on or pressed on sprockets. Here is a picture of the various wheel sprockets.

They all use #40 chain. While the 15 wheel is limited in the type of tire available for it the 12 wheel can use any 12 ATV tire up to an 8.50x23x12. As a note, Rokon used two different axle diameters over the years so if you replace your wheel bearings take the old ones with you to the parts store to match them up.

Most people prefer to use the sealed type bearing as a replacement.


The Rokon- has remained almost unchanged since the beginning. Why mess with it if it ain’t broke. There have been a few changes over the years but basicly there is a lot of interchangability among models and as the Rokon- is still in production many parts are still available from the manufacturer. In addition many parts (bearings,seals,gears,motor parts,etc.) can be found at your local auto parts or lawn equipment store.

For some of the harder to find or more expensive parts you can advertise in your local paper or search online at various auction or auto-trader sites. There is a parts wanted and a for sale section at the Rokon World Message Board Forum on Delphi. Here are some other parts links and a list of common parts numbers for things you can buy locally.

u-joint_APEX#20D250. Dave adds this info regarding the replacement joint sold by Rokon.

See rokon or rokon dealer for about $ 200. You get a new configuration that has sealed needle bearings and no bulb seal. Rokon will tell you it is interchangable and can be used on all bikes. That is not quite true — 1969 bike you may be OK. I ordered one. neat unit.

Made overseas I suspect – but nice. I had a few issues with it. *older bikes, like my 68 used a straight key in the front of the driveshaft. The bores in the original APEX joint interfaces are only open on one end —– this configuration captures a straight key.

The new joint has the bores open on both ends. straight keys are not captured and could fall out. These new joints have to be modified to add a feature (drill hole and use a roll pin) to captivate the straight keys used in older bikes. The alternative to this is to use a new drive line with drift key (self captivating).

I can’t believe rokon didn’t know this. *The other problem I encountered was the distance of the roll pin hole to end of the u-joint (too large). When I placed the u-joint on the front miterbox (stock shafting) the end of the u-joint hit the miterbox before I could line up the holes to install the roll pin. I had to machine off about .020 to get it too work (the end of the u-joint).

These issues didn’t bother me too much because I had the capacity to deal with it. I did think how dissapointed I would be if I did not have the capacity to correct the problem. For 200 bucks/per a customer should not have to deal with this. especially if he/she is relying on these machines for work and well being. I also feel that I should not have to waist my time in explaining all this to the factory.

So i didn’t. I’m now shopping for APEX joints. In the past I have modifyed APEX P/N 3D2012-0012-06C joints. These joints need to be shortened on miterbox end and you have to add roll pin hole.

According to the new catalog you could also use 300-D-20-12-6C. This has keyways in both ends (the other one I mention only has keyway in one end). This one also needs to be shortened and have roll pin hole added. See. David

u-joint boots_Grainger#2A766 lovejoy universal joint boot model D8 upper.

u-joint boot clamps_Precision Universal Joint#3433

air filter_Case#A11552 (water resistant type). AKOUTDOORS brings us this little tidbit:I went all over Anchorage trying to find replacement air filters for my Rokon. It was looking like it was time to mail order direct from Rokon International. I tried all the auto parts places and several small engine shops to no avail. I even brought the various filter numbers from Rokon web sites.

The last small engine shop I went into said he did not have anything like it and his books did not show any cross reference:( I guess he was looking for something to do because he offered to look through his store room for anything similar. Then he said, how many do you need? He brought out a couple and also the whole kit including the filter and mounting plates. They are exactly the same. He said he had worked there for years and had never sold one before.

His supplier is Wacker. Part numbers are 2005308 for the filter and 2005343 for the kit. The price was about the same as Rokon, but I am now able to buy them directly and not mess with shipping and waiting.

He also said he doubted that the Wacker numbers would cross reference to any other manufacturer. Patrick

albion trans output seal_ TCM#11162TB.

gas cap_OMC#388933—Stant #11623

Dusty says this: I have a gas cap that fits and looks better than the Stant. It’s from Bikers Choice from Nempco. (TR/Nempco #49-0447 Says: Early vented cap. ’36-early ’73, H.D. single and right fat bob tanks. OEM #: 61103-36, so with that # you can order one from any Harley related shop.

The reason I like it better than the Stant is that it looks like a M/C gas cap. It’s smaller,flatter and has the grip marks on the outside where you need friction to open it. I haven’t tried the leak test because the bike is ready for shipping and all the gas is out of the tank. I imagine it might leak like the rest of them do but drilling a hole and installing a tube fitting looks easier than on a Stant.

It might work alot better because it was designed for a motorcycle and my fatbobs on my old Shovelheads didn’t leak. BUT, I didn’t used to ride my Shovel up and down the Rubicon.

crankshaft seals_mag side#2770146-1/drive side#31146.

wheel brgs_NAPA#202-NPP8 (AKOUTDOORS adds this note: I have an early 90’s MK7 Trailbreaker with the 15 drum wheels. The wheel bearings are the same as the miter box bearings. Federal-Mogul 204-BBAR, or General Bearing 8504.

Other possible numbers are Granger 5U492, NTN SC0440 LLC3. The older wheel bearings are much smaller)

This just in from RATKILR: ( He has a set of early 12 spoke wheels that are bored 1 5/8 all the way through the hub. DRUMWHEEL says the 12 wheels came both ways, either bored smooth or with an internal step to hold the bearing. The smooth bored hubs require a flanged bearing like RATKILR describes, the stepped bore hubs can use the NAPA style bearing. Also try to use a sealed bearing not a shielded one.) —–

I finally found a bearing with 3/4 ID, 1 5/8 OD(1.625). 5 width with extended inner race, dual seals and a flanged outer race of 1 3/4. It is made by General Bearing Corporation in NY. Part # 32662-88. Has a rated load of 1171 lbs with max speed of 2500 rpms.

The only thing is that local distributer had none and had to go factory direct with minimun order of 10. Packed that way.

fuel shutoff valve o ring_#008


throttle w/cable_LeMans pro series#052016.

carb kit_Tillitson#DG5HL—NAPA#SME7-07122.

This info came from DRUMWHEEL, a veritable fount of Rokon knowledge:

The kits and needle valve is the Viton configuration for compatability with Alcohols and fuel additives.

The following are part #’s and your price for parts for the HL-173A.

DG-5HL Diaphragm Gasket Kit $ 6.33@

RK-117HL Complete Rebuild Kit $ 11.75@

EC-001 Needle Valve Springs $ .85@

26-989 Choke Shaft $ 6.51@-(Handle is on needle side but all there is)

13-1592 Throttle Shaft $ 7.48@

179-55 Welch Plug $ .57@

95-174 Fuel Inlet Screen $ .70@

16B-205 Fuel Cover Gasket $ .44@

43-966 High Side Needle $ 6.56@

43-388 Low Side Needle $ 2.56@

44-270 O-Ring $ .60@

EC-217 Flange Gasket $ .44@

233-706 Needle Seat Assembly $ 8.53@

EC-998 Shim Kit $ 7.50@

Another carb kit tip, this time from OURZOO2—I bought a carb kit from napa #7-07122 and it replaces the Tillotson kits DG-2-HL and the DG-5-HL.also it was only $4.44 including tax. It fit great the only thing the kit didn’t have was needle and seat and the two o-rings that fit around ajustment screws but everthing else fit great.

kill switch_Magura#307-0801.

miter gears_Martin#M1218B (hardened #MH1218B)

miterbox seal_.750×1.375x.250 Federal Mogul#471554—-NAPA#7513.

Rokon Scout
Rokon Scout

salsbury drive belt_Salsbury#704032—

albion drive belt_Gates#31-260—NAPA#5L290W.

one way clutch bearing_Torrington#RCB-162117-FS. (2BY adds this note:) From: Glenn (2BY) The Torrington # RCB 162117 is the exact bearing for the Mercury Clutch. Someone had posted RCB 162117 FS. this is the same bearing but it uses stainless springs inside it for instantaneous lockup. The plain RCB bearing uses springs integrally molded with the cage. I found out that the FS Bearing is not always marked FS.

The way to tell for sure is look at the little plastic cage that holds the middle row of rollers in place. The FS bearing will always have a RED plastic cage. whether it’s marked FS or not. I also got hold of the correct shaft size for this bearing if you’d like to mic the shafts while you have them apart. Maximum Shaft Dia. 1.0000 Minimum Shaft Dia.

9995 The bearing requires a shaft hardness of 58 HRC or equialent. AND last but not least. fer you hot-rodder guys. The Overrun Limiting Speed on this bearing is 8670. The RCB 162117 was about $12 at Motion Industries The RCB 162117 FS was about $22 at Motion

king pin bushings_Boston Bronze#FB1012-6.

18 tooth sprocket_Grainger#1L135

23 tooth sprocket_Grainger#6L863.

26 tooth sprocket_Grainger#6L876.

11 tooth sprocket_Grainger#6L839.

12 tooth sprocket_Grainger#1L110

sparkplug_Champion L90C.

breaker point set_Rokon #12225 — Prestolite #1-5029

condenser_Rokon #12326 —Prestolite #2-5028

brake lever_ Northern#1383-C136

brake cable_ Northern#1384-C136

throttle grip set_ Northern#1380-C136

throttle control cable_ Northern#1382-C136

throttle cable spring kit_ Northern(cable stops ect.) #2449-C136

miter gears_ MARTIN # M1218B

pull starter_ Northern#701302 — Tecumseh#590420A

Replacement Aquila Seats and Covers. These are Innocetti seats for Lambretta scooters but they are the same as the original Aquila solo seats found on the older Rokons.

Lambertta ,San Diego ,619-229-0201.

$50.00 for frame and 59$ for cover .

Dee Cooper adds this note: I bought the frames from West Coast Lambretta Works along with the covers.

The frames are exactly the same ones Rokon used. The were from some new old stock

(slight surface rust in places) but a light trip in the blast cabinet and a hit with

Gloss Black paint and they look new. They came with the springs. The numbers I

have from the firm’s invoice on my last order are:

Seat Frame Item # 1501.A

Front Saddle Seat Cover, Black Item # 1180.B

Dave sends in this list of woodruff keys:

The single digit number is the old number, the 3 digit number is the new ANSI number.

#5, ANSI# 405, 1/8 X 5/8 Albion pulley key(my favorite key)

#8, ANSI# 506, 5/32 X 3/4 Power Bee key

#9, ANSI# 606, 3/16 X 3/4 Miterbox, U-joint, RT140 Auto jackshaft key

Drum Wheel Plugs_Drumwheel filler plug size and pitch: Original (pre Chinese)  1 3/8 inch -18 Chinese wheels 36mm-1.5 Note- they look very very close in size and pitch, so don’t screw-up (pun intended), one of your wheels by using the wrong size wheel plug. (thanks to Eddie for the info)

Here is a list of parts from Napa that was submitted by 2BY.

Rokon Scout
Rokon Scout

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