An owner’s account by Nicholas Kotarski
The Good, the Bad and the I can live with that
As you can see to date, just 23 months, I have not had what I would call an easy life with my MuZ. It has good points and it has bad point, so I would like to bore, no! I would like to enlighten you with my findings as one relatively new to these two stroke wonders. (I suggest you get a fresh cup of tea or can of your favourite tipple at this point as there is still someway to go.
Don’t blame me for babbling on. I just don’t get the time to get to club meets at the moment.)
Starting with the best and working my way down my opinions are as follows:- Looks (great), ease of maintenance, design, switches, riding position, value for money, handling, build quality, parts life and prices, fuel economy, gear box/gear change (crap).
Tips, Opinions and Observations
23 months may not seem a long time in which to find out about some of the longer term aspects of owning a motorbike. however, when you have covered 48,000 km (30,000 miles) in that time you get to know quite a bit quite quickly. So this is what I have learnt:-
I still have the original chain fitted despite doom and gloom being told to me at the BMF Rally last year by other members. Apparently the originals are prone to the roller cases breaking up as happened to Paddy Tyson (see issue 103) who I have come across a couple of times. His mileage must exceed mine by now.
I believe my chain’s long life is due to two, possibly three things.
1. Every thousand miles I clean out the old grease from behind the right hand engine case/sprocket cover. I then apply a generous amount of fresh grease to the whole chain after checking that the roller cases are in tact.
2. I do not adjust the chain in accordance with the manual. The two finger width guide leaves the chain too taught for my liking and it certainly makes the gear change worse. John Lowe’s gear box problems (issue 102) could therefore well have been caused by an over tight chain, because if the dealer had adjusted it in accordance with the owner’s manual I believe it would have been too taught.
Instead, I adjust the chain until the upper chain case tube can just touch the swinging arm at the cross member. The final check is that after tightening the bolts, the wheel should spin freely. Too tight and the wheel will not spin. Of course I may risk the chain rubbing on the tubes or if too loose jumping off the cogs, but to date I have had no problems.
Also, at this level of adjustment it rarely needs adjusting. Just two flats of the adjuster bolts every 4-5,000 miles.
3. No proof here, but chatting to the gentleman on the MZ (UK) Ltd stand at the BMF Rally, he advised me that there had been such a problem, but with some of the Saxon machines, Italian supplied chains had been used and so there shouldn’t be a problem. On examining my chain, I could not find any markings of any description so its origin remains unknown and I keep a check on those rollers.
The handle bar switches, clocks and levers are excellent and easily match, if not surpass those found on Japanese machines of the same commuter category.
The headlight is poorly focused and not very bright, unlike its predecessors which were famed for their excellent headlights. The indicators are ingeniously simple and cheap but highly effective, being visible from the sides as well as front or back. The rear light is good, although I did get through three bulbs in a matter of 2 weeks, until I noticed that the rear light/brake light wires had been put on the wrong terminals.
The rear light also rubs against the tail fairing which is disappointing.
Build Quality and Design
Overall the design is very good (and one that ALL MZ riders should be proud of) with the whole plot going together without the seams showing. Unlike some early models which I think looked like they had been designed by sticking felt shaped parts on a sticky board, like those used by 6 year olds. However, because the seams (fasteners) do not show, it took some time to find out how parts actually came off.
I still haven’t worked out how the fuel tank is held on!
Unfortunately the build quality lets the side down. Cables not greased or nylon lined, tail light rubbing, rear mudguard rubs on swinging arm (cut piece off plastic mudguard), keys rub paint off ignition switch holder (cover area with insulating tape), ignition come steering lock failure (not mine but other people’s), oil sight glass failure (Paddy Tyson’s also went) and chains (as mentioned). On the bright side the paint, plastic and metal all seem pretty good.
Now are you sitting down? The original brake pads and shoes are still fitted and appear to have plenty of life left in them. Yes even after 30,000 miles. No, I do not use the back of cars to stop.
Basically I do not scream up behind vehicles and slam the brakes on. Obviously if the M1 is clear (not very often) I can cover a large distance with out braking, but even in town the engine has enough engine braking to slow the bike down sufficiently to keep braking to a minimum, which is mostly done with the back brake. Talking of the which what a pig it was, locking the back wheel up at the slightest suggestion of an emergency stop.
The culprits of course are the brake shoes which have a square profile on their leading edges which basically dig into the linings. So out with the file, on with a mask and create a nice 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge. Best to do it a little at a time because I went bit OTT and now the rear brake is a bit squidgy and has a nasty squeal at times.
Fortunately, I have not suffered the front brake problems some other members have had. My front brake has always been progressive with a fair bit of lever movement. Consequently the pads have a bit of room to move about and clatter a bit. I have been tempted to use the adjuster on the brake lever, but I prefer the clatter to possible brake seizure.
I also remove the pads (with wheel in situ) at every service, clean the holding pins and faces with wire wool and grease the backs before re-inserting them. Particular attention I feel should be paid to the holding pins because they corrode very easily which may be another reason why some brakes seize up.
. Well despite my tales of woe in Issues 104 105 of MZ Rider, L102LPP is still in my ownership. Unfortunately this year has again had its ups and downs. We managed to get to April with a clean sheet. At the end of April I had mixed feelings.
Whilst carrying out routine maintenance the HT lead fell out of the coil, accompanied by a half teaspoonful of green slime! So that was why the MuZ had had erratic starting problems for the previous six months. After a clean up, it appeared that about half of the cylindrical terminal had dissolved away.
To the uninitiated the Saxons have a plug in HT lead similar to car HT leads which plug into the distributor cap. Previously I believe MZ HT leads screwed onto a spike in the coil.
So I needed a new HT lead I thought. OK call in at Burwins. No luck. It appeared that the new style HT lead was new to them as well. A call to MZGB followed.
Sorry, the HT lead is only sold with the coil (don’t ask how much). Next stop car accessory shop. Still no luck.
Replacement car HT leads are now of the silicone variety with moulded on plug caps which are not angled and so not much use to me. In the end I decided that as the HT terminal had dissolved away, then the connection inside the coil had also probably partly dissolved as well ( DO NOT throw your coil away keep reading!). I therefore had little option than to buy an after market coil from Burwins for £20.00 plus a length of HT lead which screws in to the coil.
At least I knew what had been causing the starting problems. Unfortunately it did not help the fuel consumption which was now averaging 57 mpg compared to 60-62 mpg.
Pair of BK350’s
A few MZ’s at the BMF Show
May saw the second visit to the BMF Rally with 51,000 kms on the clock. A cold and windy day which gave me a chance to show off my handlebar heaters during the day. It was not so good though when a gust of wind nearly put me, my brother and a very expensive Harley I was test riding into a ditch (I actually remembered to take my licence this year).
Armed with a list of bargains I wanted to buy, I only came away with a new Izumi Heavy Duty chain for £12.00. The original chain had developed a couple of tight spots, but as it had done more than 32,000 miles I thought it deserved to be changed. When I replaced it the following week I found out the original was an Elite chain, but it did not indicate where it was made.
Remember I said about some OE chains coming from Italy, and were not prone to disintegrating like the East German chains. Now talking about chains, I like many others use LM grease to lubricate the chain, being cheap and easy to use. The main draw back is that it has a tendency to liquefy at speeds in excess of 60 mph and dribble all over the back wheel, which is not confidence inspiring when cornering.
My solution to this was to buy some Castrol Heavy grease. It costs the same but is designed for marine applications mainly. Basically it has a higher melting point which means it doesn’t dribble down the rear tyre as much and you use less of it as it stays on longer. In fact on first application it has a reluctance to let go of the chain and sprockets as they go round!
So if you use LM grease try Castrol Heavy and see what you think. Let us know through the magazine if you find it better.
6th July the Metzeler C block rear tyre had done its 9,000 mile stint and was due for replacement. Central tyres had ordered in a replacement for it and on the Saturday morning I headed off with the loose wheel to have it fitted. While I was waiting for my wheel to be seen to, I had a snoop around to see what else was in the racks. In the process I spied an Avon Supreme 3.50 x 16 which looked pretty meaty.
A quick check with the fitter confirmed that there would be no problem fitting it to my wheel, the Metzeler had not been specially ordered as it was a stock item, and I could have the Avon for an extra £3.50. So I became the proud owner of a British made tyre for the first time in two years. The good news is you get a lot of tyre for your £34.31.
8.25 mm in fact compared to the C block’s 7.00 mm. It also has a rounder profile and better grip that the C block, giving better cornering and braking performance. The tyre also appears to be stronger giving a firmer ride and doing away with the need to put the shocks on the firmer setting when riding solo. So far it has done 4,700 miles with 6.25 mm of tread left.
I have also subsequently found out that two other Bedfordshire MZedders are also now using Avon Supremes and agree its the best rear tyre to fit. My MuZ’s front tyre is still the Pirelli MT65 that was fitted 20,000 miles ago and shows no signs of wearing out in the near future, yet still has excellent handling and braking qualities.
Breakdown (and cry)!
11/7/96 2 days before my 35th birthday and the MuZ appeared to be running well as I went to work. On the Holloway Road I made for a quick get away from one of the many sets of lights only to find neutral between 1st and 2nd. The motor whizzed and we went no where. So I had another couple of stabs at the gear lever with my wellie.
I started to make progress again for a short while before I had to slow for the next set of lights. Coming down through the gears the engine whizzed again when I should have been in second gear. A few more prods of the gear lever and still no second gear.
S**T. A subdued ride followed for 1.5 miles until I reached Burwins. A quick explanation of the symptoms and I was told it may be quick and cheap to fix or a complete strip and expensive.
A short test ride by Matthew and the conclusion was it was the latter. What a surprise, not! An initial estimate was about £300.00, having decided that with 36,000 miles on the clock any dubious bearings should be changed. it turned out that 2nd sliding and fixed, 3rd fixed, 4th and 5th sliding, 2 main bearings, 4 gear box bearings and the usual gaskets extra were replaced making a grand total of £375.00 (after a discount for MZRC membership).
The work took from Thursday to Monday to complete so at least I only had to pay £35.00 in train fares. I told you I thought the gearbox was one of the worst things about the MuZ, and this only served to prove my point.
I now make sure that if I miss a gear I let the revs drop right down and select the lower gear again rather than trying to engage the higher gear.
Barely 5 weeks later and disaster struck again on the Holloway Road. This time the main fuse blew
while waiting at a set of traffic lights. A change of fuse and a turn of the handlebars and that fuse blew as well. This sounded familiar! I pushed the MuZ the 1.5 miles to Burwins for help expecting it to stay the day.
Matthew started checking the various circuits by disconnecting connector blocks in turn. The problem disappeared after one block was disconnected however when the block was reconnected the problem didn’t return. Even with all the blocks reconnected and several turns of the handlebars the fuse remained intact.
We put it down to a poor connection, as there was evidence of corrosion on some of the blocks. At least I didn’t have another bill two days before my summer holiday.
Un Con Fused
Two weeks later, on the last day of my holiday, I started the winter preparation for the MuZ. I thought it best to give all the connectors a good clean up and spray with WD40, following the fuse blowing episode. It turned out quite a few of the connector blocks had green fluff, especially those under the seat.
At least the fuse should stop blowing I thought. As I would be at work the next day and I hadn’t ridden the MuZ for two whole weeks, I thought it would be best to take it for a test ride. This tied in nicely with a delivery Hilary wanted me to make to a friend of hers 3 miles away. The MuZ ran OK. Well it did until the fuse blew again a mile from home in the rush hour traffic.
I was a bit upset. No I wasn’t, I was f*^%$њ p%??/@ o
Refreshed, I started my quest to find the electrical fault. I recalled that the previous electrical fault the MuZ had had at the end of last year, had emanated from under the petrol tank. Having wasted a couple of fuses giggling the loom about around the head stock, the seat was off for the second time that day. I must admit I had never had the petrol tank off of the MuZ before, but it turned out much the same as my old Benly.
Petrol tap set to off, petrol pipe off, undo bolt at rear, pull and lift tank backwards. Once the tank was off I had rather a shock with a tinge of relief. The wiring loom and speedo cable had both worn through the paint and into the frame of the MuZ. More importantly, the insulating tape on the loom had also worn away exposing a metal terminal on the main live wire. Surprise surprise, rubbing this against the frame produced sparking and blowing of the fuse.
What I did not understand was why such a naff terminal system had been used, and especially under the petrol tank. Basically, the main wires come from the seat area to half way along the tank. Here each wire meets three or four like wires emanating from the connector blocks at the steering column.
To join the main wire to the branch wires, what can be best described as a bird’s identity ring has been used to crimp each set of wires together. Of course this metal band is not insulated so only a couple of layers of insulating tape and the paint keep them from shorting out. Owners be warned! The remedy was to slap some Hammerite paint on the frame, carefully apply plenty of insulating tape to the loom and to be on the safe side drape a section of old inner tube over the loom.
After smearing grease in appropriate places the petrol tank was slipped back on after checking the electrics were OK.
Well at least I should now have some trouble free motoring for a while I thought.
The Last Strand!
2 weeks later the throttle response went haywire. A closer inspection revealed the oil pump was being operated by one strand of the original cable. I had no option than to remove the remaining strand and nipple. In order to get to work and to Burwins for a replacement cable, I carefully prepared a 50:1 petrol/oil mix. Unfortunately Burwins were not to have a new cable until the Wednesday.
Consequently, I had to run on pre-mix all week.
However, this latest problem was a slight blessing in disguise because the performance dramatically improved using pre-mix and the MuZ was zipping along nicely thank you. Now I have always believed that the carburation on the 251 has never been quite right, so to try and figure out why I borrowed the Haynes Manual of Motorcycle Carburettors for the library. The book is worth reading if only to give you a better understanding of carburation.
Now the spark plug on my 251 Saxon tour has always been nearly black except when running flat out. Even allowing for the presence of two stroke oil this indicated a rich mixture. Yet running on the pre-mix, it was a nice shade of brown/tan.
The Haynes manual reveals that adding two stroke oil to petrol in fact weakens the fuel/air mixture, because the oil displaces an equal volume of petrol but not being of a highly volatile nature is not included in the motive power process. So my 50:1 pre-mix had resulted in a 2% weakening in the petrol/air mixture strength across the whole engine speed range. This was why it was going so well then in the mid engine speed range.
However, the mixture did not really need to be any weaker at full revs. When the new oil cable was to be fitted, which meant disconnecting all the throttle related cables, I first of all made sure they were all nicely lubricated, although using grease instead of oil on the actual throttle cable was a mistake I think, i should have stuck with gearbox oil. On refitting the carburettor slide, that was showing some signs of wear at 38,000 miles, I opted to drop the needle to the no 1 slot.
Now the Haynes manual explains that the air correction screw is responsible for the mixture strength for the first 0-10% of the throttle opening, the needle/needle jet is responsible for the mixture strength from 10-90% and the size of the main jet for the last 10%. Lowering the needle was therefore only going to effect the mid range where my bike was used most. The down side is that lowering the needle weakens the mixture by a maximum of about 8%.
This of course was a lot more than the pre-mix had done. Too weak a mixture may have led to pinking and possibly a holed piston, so very close monitoring was required. Staying with the standard plug the colour of it was barely light brown and therefore far too weak.
Then I remembered that Burwins had once done a similar thing to my MuZ and fitted a BH7S spark plug which I still had. So I fitted this as it appeared to be a colder plug, drawing heat from the engine, (note. it is in fact a hotter plug which retains heat in the engine) because the plug colour became more of a mid brown again. The performance of the MuZ has changed significantly.
There is more pull lower down the rev range and smoother running between 3-4,000 rpm, with little lurching on the over run, making riding in town much easier. It feels a little flat between 4,000 – 4,250 rpm but pulls well above this. Consequently I now tend to cruise on the motorway at just under 65 mph, approximately 4,500 rpm, where it feels comfortable and smooth.
Fuel consumption is about 55-57 mpg.
Now Martin of Bedford, who bought my spare mirrors and indicators off of me, turned up on a Burwin ETZ300 conversion. apparently he gets 70 mpg whilst cruising at 70 mph, which seems amazing until you take a look at the owners manual for the ETZ range. The carburettors settings and sizes are identical for the 251 and 301. Working on the basis that the bigger the engine the higher the fuel flow, then MuZ would not want the 301 to run weak because of the risk of engine damage.
However if the 301 was set to run spot on with the said carburettor settings/sizes, then that would mean the 251 would be running rich for the same settings. Running the 251 rich would of course pose no mechanical risks as long as basic plug maintenance was carried out. Unfortunately for the owner, the richer mixture means wasted fuel and a poorly burning mixture resulting in poor performance resulting in even more throttle opening to get any action.
All this results in sluggish performance (compared to previous MZ250s) and greater fuel consumption. More frequent changing of the air filter (at £11.30 a time) is also required to avoid an even richer mixture. All this for the sake of simplicity and economy for the manufacturer.
It’s a shame the Saxon 251 has been deprived of the performance and economy it deserved by the manufacturer’s failure to take the time and trouble to find the ideal needle size.
What choice is there?
Assuming there is no change in the next two years, I will be opting for either a Burwins 301 conversion for my MuZ plus a carburettor overhaul, or buying a new Kanuni 301. With the downfall of MuZ, hopefully Kanuni will be able to get hold of the manufacturing rights for the Saxon range and start making the Saxon 301 again. As 1st January 1997 fast approaches with the start of the new licensing laws, some proper marketing could see a boom in Kanuni’s fortunes and their dealers e.g.
Buy the rights to manufacture the Saxon styled 125 and sell to training schools on special terms. The 125 by all accounts is easier to learn on than Jap equivalents being bigger than the Jap roller skates and less revy. Having learned on an MZ derivative the student will appreciate they are not as bad as people make out, and the 301 appears as an ideal cheap and cheerful bike to spend the next two years on until the new motorcyclist qualifies for a biggie.
After all, why lose £2,000 in depreciation over two years on a new Jap 500, which will have been detuned to meet the power ceiling any way, when you can buy a pretty nippy 300cc motorcycle for £1,600 and keep it as a winter bike when you get a biggie.
As for the other 250-300cc motorcycles around, these are still twice the price of the 301 with little going for them except being made in Japan, which means expensive spares and usually rust.
Sorry about that, went off at a bit of a tangent. Where was I? Oh yes, I have just finished the MuZ’s 40,000 mile service. It looks like the original brake pads are clattering because the holes the pins go through in the pads themselves have become elongated, and there are signs of some wear in the actual calliper itself.
For now I will keep an eye on them and if things worsen will change them and fit new stainless steel pins, but hopefully I will get another 5,000 miles out of them first.
I thought I would end on some goods news though. I tried to sort out my motorcycle insurance renewal before going on holiday in September. Ringing my brokers, Mitchell and Partners of London, proved fruitless due to a queuing system, so I dropped a letter off at there offices at Highgate, which is on my way home, to say there was no change in circumstance except my advancing years had reached 35.
The offices were being refurbished, which probably explained the phone delays. The next day they phoned me and confirmed that my renewal invitation was in fact in the post for £212.18. £7.00 more than last year despite an additional 10% no claims discount. However, they had not requoted, which they had done upon receipt of my letter.
I thought he said the new quote was £175.00 which I was pleased with. However when I opened the letter the next day it was in fact for £112.75 fully comprehensive with Equity Red Star at Lloyds and still only £125.00 excess. Boy was I pleased, and goes to show always try to get a new quote before renewing your insurance.
Hopefully there will be nothing to write about for the next 20,000 miles (ha ha).
Note: No apple crumble and custard, no punctures. Weird
Passing of an era
My five and a half years of MZ ownership are shortly to come to an end (assuming I find a buyer). Not a long time I must admit by comparison to some club members. However, the 84,000 miles that I have covered in that time, will not be matched by some motorcyclists in a life time, not that distance makes a person any more or less a motorcyclist.
The above mileage of course is in addition to the 76,000 miles covered by a Honda CD200T Benly, 14,000 miles by a Kawasaki GT550 (shaft), and approximately 20,000 miles shared between a Honda CB125S and a NVT Easy Rider moped.
A notable absence of sports bikes. Definitely motorcycles to get you from A to B on a regular basis. That was especially true of the MZ. The number of journeys which were not between Luton and London, I can count using my fingers and toes, and include 4 trips to the BMF Rally to help man the MZRC stand. The other bikes were generally sole forms of transport and went everywhere.
The Benly being notable for a 1700 mile two week camping tour of the South Coast of England. Its outstanding economy (95+ mpg for its entire lifetime with an all time record of 125 mpg achieved whilst riding 2 up on dual carriageway cruising at 60 mph), combined with easy maintenance, lazy riding style (brakes were optional and the gearbox was redundant above 30 mph) and reliability means that it still holds the no. 1 slot in my heart.
Where does that put the MZ when compared with the GT550? Well the GT550 was to be my dream bike. To me, Mr Sensible/Mr Functionality, the GT550 appeared to have everything. Shaft drive, gaitered suspension, electronic ignition, strong motor.
I had a picture of one on my bedroom wall waiting for me to be able to buy one. In reality it didn’t hit the spot for me. It was one heavy bike. Four cylinders, big cast wheels and a 5 gallon fuel tank 3 feet above the ground makes for quite a balancing act at standstill. Needless to say, within days of ownership I was lying on my side in a petrol station having just filled up and then losing my balance.
Luckily I had had engine bars fitted and friends following me in a car helped pick the bike up. The 19 inch front wheel did not like corners, preferring straight lines as found on motorways. I like corners.
The 4 cylinders and lots of weight also used a lot of fuel to move around, I was lucky to get 50 mpg. It also got through engine oil quickly. Nearly as quickly as the MZ uses 2 stroke oil in fact. Speed was of course its strong point. With a touring screen fitted, 80 mph cruising was a doddle, as this coincided with the start of the power band at 6,000 rpm.
A notable achievement for the GT550 was a journey time of 1 hour from Gower Street, London to Sandy, Bedfordshire via the A1 on a Saturday evening. Distance approximately 55 miles
I had planned to use the 550 to tour Norway and Sweden, but affairs of the heart meant it had to go to make way for a car.
The MZ therefore takes 2nd place. Cheap, good looking, simple and functional design, ease of maintenance, long lasting consumables, good handling and adequate performance, all put it ahead of the Kawasaki. Poor fuel consumption (for its size), poor gear change and gearbox, an appetite for oil pump cables (which I think I just cured), plus a nasty electrical fault last year leave it behind the Benly.
I thought I was going to complete the magic 100,000 miles on it but its not to be.
So why the change?
Circumstance really. Low interest rates (11.9% pa via Marks and Spencer loans) and low bike prices due to competition from parallel imports means an ideal time to buy a replacement whilst the MZ is also in full working order.
Most people by now would have predicted a new CB Two fifty as my replacement steed, being a descendant of the Benly. To tell you the truth I had thoroughly investigated the likes of cost, insurance, fuel consumption, etc. The stumbling block was the cost. Of 5 major dealers I telephoned, only 2 gave me a price and that was Honda’s on the road list price £3,299, and it would have to be ordered.
Three road test reports later revealed it to be a bit gutless over 60 mph with a flimsy frame. Much the same as my Benly but a lot more money. Over the MZ I would gain economy but lose some handling and some performance. It was when I drove past Coburn Hughes in Luton, a Honda dealer, that my thoughts changed tracks. The end of season sale had just started.
New bikes bought in for the summer which were still unsold, were now in the window, all reduced in price. It was the nice red CB500 that caught my eye sitting in the window. Price £3,299 on the road. More road test reports quickly followed together with shouted requests to CB500 riders at traffic lights. An excellent all rounder and according to owners usually returning 65 mpg when ridden sensibly.
That would be an improvement on the MZ with performance in a different league. Compared to the CB Two Fifty running costs, insurance would be £15.00 more and servicing costs about the same. It had been 4 weeks since I first saw it and I finally took the plunge last weekend, persuading the dealer to throw in a Datatag kit free of charge for me to fit.
I do not know what the 500 will be like to ride as I have never ridden one and no demonstrators are around at the moment, but the riding position is slightly more prone than the MZ with the foot rests under ones bum. The final choice of fairing is still to be made, but looks likely to be an Acrybre sports fairing as the large touring fairings are too expensive at over £400 each. A Scotoiler or similar will also be acquired. (I will miss the enclosed chain).
I was going to say that my MZ is now of course for sale, but between starting this letter and finishing it I have already sold it via my MZ connections.
Was it worth buying?
Not long after I bought my MZ, I wrote a piece for the magazine explaining why I had bought it and my first impressions. One of the main criteria I had set for it was that it must cost less to run than it would for me to travel by train to London. Even after including all motor cycling related costs, including clothing. club membership, etc, I am pleased to say the MZ cost on average £600.00 per year less than the train, saving £3,000 over 5 years, and that’s not allowing for the resale value.
I know my involvement with the club has been relatively small. Being limited to a few articles and being on the club stand at the BMF Rally. but I have thoroughly enjoyed this input and know from this years BMF Show that there is still a bright future for the club.
Nicholas Kotarski 11/9/99
Finally, I must thank Martin Gumbrecht for answering my cry for help in trying to get this article to my homepage. He succeeded where NTL helpdesk failed (to respond, which may explain the lack of WEB pages at http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ ).
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