MZ Skorpion 660 Sport
MZ Skorpion 660 Sport

From Philadelphia Riders wiki


Torque Values

Mostly c/o Chris H. Roland @ Spare Parts Co. and Galen @ Bikeworx:

Oil Drain 22 Oil Pipe Screws 9 Oil Filter Drain 7.2 Oil Filter Cover Screws 7.2 Oil Filter Vent Screw 3.6 Coarse Oil Filter 22 (Do not open without new crush washers on hand! Copper, 16mm ID, 20mm OD) Crankcase cover bolts 7.6

Front Axle 50 Pinch Bolts 10 Rear Axle 80 Countershaft Sprocket 80

Fork Seals


download the catalog as pdf,

go to page 38 to find their replacement rotor for the Skorpion front.

henrib: Skorp front rotor is an EBC MD619RS 316mm I have heard that you can bolt on an R6 310 mm rotor in a pinch.

Motor Parts Compatibility

Yamaha uses on part for several bikes. The 660 motor is a mix of xt600e, 660 raptor and other parts that are unique to that motor.

c/o Bill Jurgenson: nope, the motor ist from the xtz which is much older than the 660 raptor; it would be proper to say that the raptor uses the xtz motor. Whatever, all the motor parts are Yamaha parts or parts Yamaha put there such as the totally unnecessary fuel pump. There are no special bearings or odd-ball seals anywhere on the Skorpion, so bearings and seals can be had from any industrial supplier. I never order them from a bike dealer – that is just more expensive.

Swingarm and linkage is original Yamaha. Yamaha FZR 600 (3HE) strut fits exactly but needs a stronger spring, one from a FZR 100o is just right. These things can usually be had cheaply from eBay.

The lower linkage from that FZR 600 (3HE) also fits exactly because that where MZ got it and the swingarm, too. So, here, too, no need to look for a needle in a haystack or unqualified MZ dealer.

All brake parts can and should be replaced with Brembo pumps and calipers. The only problem is the front rotor which is used only on a very few other bikes – a the moment I can think only of the Honda RS125. Of course there are aftermarket rotors.

Leaves only the electric stuff which is basically CEV except for the Denso parts directly connected to the motor. The round headlight of the Tour is from Yamaha and is virtually unbreakable as long as you don’t fall down too often. Even then, only the ring or casing gets damaged; the lens and reflector are impervious and if it does break, the Diversion has the exact same headlight.

The stupid bull’s eye thing in the Sport can be replaced with the same sized and shaped headlight from a Yamaha xt600 (among others) with it H4 bulb – and it is both lighter and impervious to vibrations. The Denso CDI is used in the xtz and that from the Yamaha SZR works just as well as does that of the the TDM:

TDM 3VD-82305-00 131800 5550 12V TNDF14 G blue label

SZR 4MY-82305-00 131800 6150 12V TDMF19 J orange label

Skorpion and xtz 3YF-82305-00 131800 5040 12V TNDF13 F blue label

Only the fork seals might prove to be a problem, but then I just changed mine for the first time last year – after 12 years and much use. Ask me to send them if you seriously can’t find then. I usually have them or can get them at short notice.

Guess that leaves really only the plastic fairing parts and the rubber protector on the swingarm as a real OEM MZ part not outsourced at Yamaha or one of its dependencies like Paioli or Brembo. Easy enuf to make something yourself from nylon to go there. Don’t even bother to try and get fairing parts ’cause there are virtually no more to be had new.

For the Sport in the US, you can try to get the Beasley fiberglass racing fairing and seat cowl when the originals disintegrate. Over here in Europe at MLB. And of course you can try eBay. or ask here and in other fora: the german and dutch/belgian fora where you can write english if you want: german: belgian/dutch:

Almost no need for aMZ dealer; any competent Yamaha dealer will and must do. I order all those specific OEM parts I need from my Yamaha dealer, too. It is quite another question if one needs a competent workshop.

These are few and far between, regardless of make. If you find one, regards less of franchise, be nice to him, take your business there, recommend him to others. And he won’t send you away just because you didn’t buy your bike (he doesn’t sell anyway) in his shop.

Anybody who does is best avoided entirely.

c/o Emilino A: Yes, the mz is a xtz motor The raptor uses the exact same cylinder and head (same part#s)except for the coolant oulet but that unbolts. But the cases are completely different. The xtz/mz uses the same clutch cover gasket as the xt600e, the crank is almost the same as the xtz, There are some other bits that interchange; I only know this because I could not find parts so I looked them up at work (when I was a bike mechanic) If someone really needs some engine part let me know; I can go look for a parts interchange list that I made some time ago. Yamaha is famous reusing parts.

You can actually bolt a 5valve head on an xt600 but you will have no water pump which you can bolt on too. Gotta love yammies.

Tank Vent/Overflow

c/o Bill Jurgenson: It is not primarily an overflow, it is the tank vent. No point in emptying the tank to inspect what you will not be able to see at all since the vent is an integral part of the platic of the tank. THE only problem the vent can have (and does) is not working at all because it is clogged.

The female threaded fitting in the bottom of the tank is stainless, the screwed-in nipple aluminium and these two can react chemically (electrolysis) causeing the nipple to corrode so severly that it is only a lump of dirt. That has happened to one of my three and I have seen it elsewhere. The other two are fine, including the oldest one from 1994.

Don’t fill to the brim – the handbook points this out, keep the fuel level with the bottom of the filler neck. Whatever fuel or condensation that gets into the concentric ring of the gas cap fixture will run down the vent hose which should be there and be quite long, routed down between motor and swingarm. Any liquid from outside (rain, washing. ) will also collect in that ring.So, be sure to wipe out any liquid there and not to fill to the brim.

If you want to get rid of the problem once and for all and get a better vent as well, put the vent on top of the gas cap fixture and close off the internal vent with a screw. This is the tank with the corroded nipple which caused hairpulling till we discovered it. The parts for the top vent are over-the-counter items for air-driven controlling units.

Putting tank foam (? better term in english?) into the gas tank is basically a sound idea and mandatory in real racing because it keeps the fuel from jostling around and thus changing the balance during curves in quick succession. I have it in the green tank shown above but not in the others.

Overall Parts Compatibility

c/o Bill Jurgenson:

Does a Shop Manual for the Skorpion even exist? yes in German and very hard to get.

THere is a Yamaha SZR 660 manual to download as PDF to be found in several places on the net:

There is a Yamaha dealership near me that refuses to even look at the bike, because of this. I would not let the likes of them look at my Yamaha, either!

I have noticed that there are fewer and fewer websites that cater to the Skorpion. To be expected since the thing is no longer in production. Almost everything you need can be gotten from a good Yamaha dealer. There are very few real MuZ parts you need or that ever break. Even the rear swing arm and linkage are Yamaha OEM parts from the FZR600.

Thus the strut from that Yamaha is a direct replacement, too. Front fork is Paioli and Paioli, like Marchesini and Olins, belong to Brembo which belongs to Yamaha. The Grimeca crap MuZ (others, too, like Aprilia) used is best replaced by much better (tho not more expensive) Brembo items as soon as the Grimeca shit starts to act up.

MZ Skorpion 660 Sport
MZ Skorpion 660 Sport

Or before, considering that you are dealing with your own security.

From Norman on the MZOG: you can get a reusable oilfilter for the Skorpion here: No idea how good it is, and how many paper filters can you buy for $69?

According to this website: KN pod filters to fit the Skorpion are parts nos: rc-1820 and rc-1250. I haven’t tried this myself, so good luck with the jetting.


Speedo drive cable for Ducati monster M600/750/900 local Duc dealer 1 cm (1/2 ) shorter but a perfect fit submitted by-Evert Duistermaat

Changing Fork Oil

c/o Bill Jurgenson:

Anyone have instructions on changing fork oil on a Traveller.

You have to remove each fork entirely to empty the oil out; there is no drainplug at the buttom. Before you loosen anything, crak the two fork plug screws at the top. Then you can attempt to loosen the allenhead bolts in the tripletrees, one side as a time.

This could prove to be a daunting experience. As often as not, these cannot be budged, rahter the hex holes get reamed to round. I have seen this far too often. Before ruining them, heat them up with a blowtorch or acetylene welder, then serve them a couple of smart blows and then try to undo.

One case I had in the shop, the axle could not be screwed out of the right fork leg. I ended upremoving both legs complete with wheel, then pulling the left leg and wheel from the axle. A could then clamp the axle in a vise. heat the end of the leg with the welder and with considerable exertion undo the leg.

What to learn from this: zinc plating and aluminium are prone to electrolysis and considerable oxidation. Always use suitable anti-sieze on threads or proper grease for the purpose. Best also not to use zinc plated screws.

back to the fork. Use a decent oil Wilbers recommends SAE 20 oil and 160mm air cavity for die Sport. WP SAE 15 oil and 160mm. My own experience for the Tour dictates 150mm and SAE 20 with Wilbers springs. With the fork leg compressed all the way and the spring removed, fill the oil to the requisite level measured from the top.

Extend to limit, put in the spring and spacer and screw on top plug. Don’t forget to tighten this plug once the leg is back in place.

Should be OK for the Traveller/Tour, too. They have longer forktubes and that is why the spacers are longer. If you find the fork too hard, too progressive, more air space, if too soft less.

If too squishy heavier oil, too sluggisch thinner oil. But above all, since you have to take it apart anyway, replace the springs with progressive springs from Wilbers/WhitePower/Wirth/etc. Catalogue items.

Forgot to say that in emptying, you need to pull the leg in and out a few times. Likewise when refilling. Do this before you have filled it up and be careful; do it slowly or it will spray the contents back out. messy.

hidden fuel filter

I had no end of problems with poor running of my Skorpion until I discovered the ‘hidden filter’. To remove and clean: Remove carb and undo float bowl screws. Remove the float by pushing the pin out in the direction of the arrow. WARNING! Don’t force the pin as the ‘ears’ that hold the pin in place are fairly fragile and can snap if you push too hard, especially if there a ‘bubble’ of air inside it due to a casting fault.

Don’t ask! Remove the float and carefully remove the needle valve. Next to the needle valve seat there’s a cross headed screw which overlaps the seat and holds it in place. Undo this screw and pull the seat out carefully with pliers (it’s got an ‘o’ ring on it so try not to damage it). You should now find the filter, a dome of fine nylon mesh at the end of the seat.

Clean this and replace everything, remembering to replace the pin AGAINST the direction of the arrow. Check the float height (25 – 27mm) and replace the float bowl. The screws are M4 x 12 and it’s worth replacing them with Allen screws (hex socket cap), preferably made of stainless and use a fine smear of copper grease on the threads (to stop them seizing). Allen screws are less likely to chew up than cross heads, and it SHOULD be possible to undo them in situ.

I would advise all riders of MZs with the 660 engine to fit a good quality fuel filter into the fuel line. It’s a lot easier to clean one of them than take your carb apart!

MZ Skorpion 660 Sport
MZ Skorpion 660 Sport
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